ITS A WRAP - HEADING HOME

Of All The Pleasures - Eat, Drink, and Ride!

Heading Home

Heading home is always bitter sweet. After the six hectic weeks on the road an extended period of quiet inactivity and solitude is an enticing alternative. Even with a few bumps along the way (figurative and literal) this was a phenomenal trip. With several long drives on transfer days we decided to end in the Loire which is only several hours from CDG (Charles De Gaule) airport outside Paris. Having finished most of the packing after our ride the day before, we left ourselves time for a leisurely drive and detour to Chateau de Fontainebleau. A stroll around town was a break from sitting in the car with enough time for lunch at a local Kabab dive. Serving as a college town in addition to tourist spot means simple food options abound. Complementing our simple fare was a stop at an amazing Patisserie for Kim's evening dessert. 

Our traditional schedule is to drop off the rental car, get vanned to our hotel, leaving enough time for last night drinks and simple dinner. Since we transfer through Frankfort on Lufthansa we get an abbreviated night's sleep and a very early flight. The flight from Frankfort to Denver is almost ten hours - all in daylight which seems to last forever. In and out of DIA was a breeze augmented with the good news that all our bags and bikes landed safely. On the drive back to Vail we followed tradition and stopped at KFC to pick up dinner. Quick unload of the car and a one hour nap to help conquer jet lag. By the next day all the bags were unpacked, bikes reassembled, and laundry done. Good to be back home again and sleeping in our own beds. After thousands of Bon Jours and too much pastry and bread France was receding in the rear view mirror. 

Lessons learned

At our advancing age longer stays at fewer locations would go a long way to raising the enjoyment factor with little left on the cutting room floor. While discussing our next French adventure (possibly next fall) we agreed that as long as the location is appealing, the house comfortable, and sufficient riding diversity we would consider one or two locations. The preferred longer locations would be the Dordogne and Provence with the Dordogne higher on the list.

Flying into or out of Paris has its advantages but presents a navigational challenge and longer than necessary drives either to our first location or return from the last one. Toulouse is a better option when heading to Dordogne and Marseille is a winner if going to Provence.  

Our goal over the years has been to pare back on the stuff we bring, and this trip was no exception. A list has already been created of what not to bring next time, especially bulky or heavy items like bike tools and replacements. This trip started with new tires (smart move) so no extra tires to bring. With no road flats 12 extra CO2 inflation cartridges is ridiculous, besides bike parts are available everywhere. A patch kit and a few extra tubes is all that is needed. The best addition this year was a 12 volt electric bicycle pump which is lighter than a typical floor pump and usable from the car or indoor 220 volt outlet. 

France By The Numbers

We traveled for 42 nights, stayed in eight locations, rode 823 miles over 27 rides, drove over 2000 kilometers, ate too many calories, and drank too much alcohol. 

We rode over 3200 wheel miles (4x distance rode) without a flat tire - either on the road or indoors. A tube change when Kim's front tire appeared to be getting soft but the replacement was precautionary.

 

We are fortunate to be able to undertake these difficult traveling adventures and plan to keep doing what we do until we can't do it anymore. 

La vie est belle

   

NEUNG - 13-OCT

This is our travel day from the Loire to CDG which is also chronicled in the adjacent post. 

There are firsts and there as lasts. A pre-departure last drive to town for our last fresh baguette. Breakfast was simple and complete. 

Our bags are packed and we are ready to go. Everything we came with is now in the car so Kim drops off the key. 
Au revoir!

Another perfect weather day as we arrive at Fontainebleau. 

We have encountered a vast array of magnificent buildings but this was the most expansive and elaborate.  

A well placed selfie confirms that we are actually here. 

But a better view of the expanse without us blocking the view. 

Kim could not resist one more confirmation photo. Very similar to the one we took on our trip here with the girls many moons ago. 

 

NEUNG - 12-OCT

Today is the last riding day of our France, 2023 adventure. We opted for a short ride knowing the time it will take to dismantle and pack the bikes. Not leaving much to chance we decided to retrace portions of previous rides. Having landed in the middle of a field we shied away from exploring new roads. However, a second glance at Google maps revealed an alternative path over a paved route (we did not know it was paved until we explored the intersection). We wish we would have found it before. It avoided a larger road with construction that we had taken on another ride - a real bonus. 

Since we were almost locals and had not had our coffee stop we extended into town and the local cafe across from the church. What a surprise.

The perfect ending to our biking, eating, and touring adventure. Everything ends better with chocolate!

 

NEUNG - 11-OCT

 Today's ride was a cut and paste of previous day's rides. Some of the sections we have traveled were so quiet and scenic we were not deterred from covering the same ground. 

Hard to see but this sign shows a baker putting baguettes in the oven. 

Coffee stops are always better with chocolate. Sorry Napolean!

Not sure if this was another decorated bike or a functioning one decked out with stuff too cumbersome to transport. 

A neighboring sheep back in our yard.

And his donkey companion. This guy serenaded us for the entire week, often at zero dark thirty in the morning. 


No day is complete without one of the basic food groups. Sweet dreams. 

NEUNG - 10-OCT

 

Since our host is the games keeper for a local private reserve he spends a lot of time in the forest overseeing the animals. A sideline is finding edible mushrooms which he was kind enough to share. We did clean and cook some but decided they were ok to eat but too mushy. It was the thought that counted. 

Kim never misses a scenic spot along the way while I keep my eyes focused on the pavement under my front wheel. 

Yet another grand estate tucked behind the hedges. There are more of these everywhere to even count. 

A real sculpture of an impressive stag but not as much fun as the real thing. 

The local architecture here is different from our other locations. Brightly colored doors and windows surround the intricate stone facade. 

This classic Citroen was touring the area. We passed it on several rides but not sure of its mission. 

It was stopped along our favorite road. There was a film crew taking videos of two women who exited the vehicle and strolled along to the adjacent pond. Since we did not want to disrupt their shoot we took a few photos and continued on our way. Would be fun if it showed up in one of the French series we like to watch.

Nice looking eclair which was more memorable than the town where we ate it. 

NEUNG - 09-OCT

 

Today we were on a mission. We plotted the most direct route to Chambord, probably the largest and most famous chateau in the Loire and all of France. Not as large as Versailles nor as expansive but it is still a majestic building. It is situated in a forest park about five miles from the nearest town.

This is our third visit to the chateau. Our first was in 1967 while on our honeymoon. Paris was one of our stops including London, Amsterdam, and Madrid. We were on a five dollar a day tour (yes, it is not a typo - the trip was advertised as five dollars per day). In Paris we decided to take a one day (very long day) bus tour which ended at Chambord for a light and sound show - in French. It was still magnificent even though we did not understand a word. 

Our second visit was on our 2016 self guided, solo bike trip to France, starting in the Loire Valley. We biked to the chateau but did not take the inside tour and just cycled around it. Today was our third visit which was a ride to the grounds but from a different direction and included a coffee stop. At eight euros this was the most expensive two double espressos on the trip. Viva La Tourist. 

Since we made a beeline that covered the shortest distance there was no deviations along narrow paths. We did pass through several towns including the home of this church - very uncharacteristic for an Englise but no town would find themselves without one. It is hard to imagine the percentage of town wealth that went into church construction over the centuries. 

We entered into the surrounding forest and knew we were soon to be rewarded. 

There it is in the distance. Quite impressive even this far away 

Frontal view down the main entrance path. 

Just to prove we were actually there someone took our photo. Could be the cover picture for the 2023 Holiday Card. 

On our last visit this section was concealed by scaffolding but now that the restoration is finished it makes for a better picture.  

Yet another view as we circumnavigated the building. 

Sculpture of stag outside the coffee cafe. Interesting construction using wood fragments to build up the torso. 

We passed this photographer shooting a bride. Hard to see from this angle. Great wedding venue but think it was only a photo op for a soon to be bride or promo for bridal gown 

Short rest on our way home. At 38 miles plus this was one of our longest rides, but very flat and minimal climbing. Kim's favorite. 

NEUNG - 08-OCT

 

Today was our second ride in the Loire Valley. The terrain is very flat with lightly traveled roads and long straight stretches. Even though it is warmer here than at our last locations many of the roads are wooded sections through the forest. Not sure if the forests are original or plated to harvest the lumber which is stacked along the roadsides probably drying before heading to a sawmill. 

Our house is in a fairly modern subdivision which was probably farmland. Our closest neighbor is a donkey that lives in an enclosure which may be part of this house or the next one over. 

Houses here are more half timber with brick and cement filling the spaces between the wood. A far cry from the predominant stone structures in the Dordogne. Not clear the vintage but guess the medieval stone villages predate this areas. 

This town is planning a festival for breast cancer awareness. Pink umbrellas are hanging from everywhere. 

Gray herons are everywhere but we have yet to see a live one. We even have one in our back yard. 

Watch our for these critters which inhabit the surrounding woods and fields. They even have warning signs that have a picture of a deer and extend for 3 km - amazing how the animals can convert from miles to kilometers. 

A bit more creative this sculpture made from a dead log is actually mounted in the water giving a greater sense of realism. 

Early aviation started in France long before the Wright Brothers. Not sure if this is just a sculpture or replica of one of the earliest flying machines. 

We are always interested in what is growing along the way, especially those fields under cultivation. 

Had to use an image search to identify this one. It might be a wild sunflower plant but not sure what they do with it. Not the traditional sunflower plant we have seen all over the country. 

Since we finished our ride earlier than expected (flat rides go much faster with fewer stops) Kim wanted to drive over to see the actual Loire River. It was a lovely drive with an expectation for an ice cream stop before heading back. This was not to be since it is Sunday so any place that would have been open earlier in the day was closed by the time we arrived. Oh well, another day. 

There are many chateaus in this area so classic castles are plentiful. Having toured most of the most famous on earlier trips we are only planning to return to Chambord on tomorrow's ride and skip a return visit to the rest. This place was on our ice cream drive and dates back to the 17th century. It was an abbey not a chateau but equally majestic 

It has been repurposed as a Grand Hotel once the religious order vacated. More profitable. 

We made it to the river so our quest was successful. Lots of cyclists going in every direction on this warm, sunny, beautiful day. 

Not a lot of water but enough to qualify as an official river with a bridge crossing.