JULIEN - 11-SEP

Today's ride started at the house which allows us to sleep in for another 30 minutes. Due to the very high daytime temps (not Phoenix hot, but hot for us) we get on the bikes shortly after sunrise. 

Route planning is critical to get the climbing behind us before the beating sun drains our energy. An overcast day is a blessing as is a shade covered road along the hillsides. 

At the highest point of the ascent we enjoyed this expansive view of the Dordogne river valley below.

The descent to the river took us down this windy, narrow road.

I go first to scout the steep decline beyond the arch. Sure glad we have hydraulic disc brakes. 

This area is known for its walnut trees which are everywhere. It was once a vine area centuries ago which was wiped out by a blight, so the hearty walnut tree replaced the grapes. We prefer the fruit of the vine over the fruit of the tree.

Chestnuts are not as common but often line the roads dropping fruit in our path. Important to ride around them and avoid a dreaded puncture. So far no flats which really sours a ride.

Welcome to the Dordogne and flat, meandering path along the river. 

Quick stop in Saint Julien for life's essentials. A daily fresh baguette is a French law. Oh so civilized!

My bike is more beautiful with colorful flowers in the photo.

 

JULIEN - 10-SEP

Today we drove to our starting point. Although getting the bikes into and out of the car is a chore it extends our routing range. After watching numerous videos on local sites we knew that this ride would take us to "must see" locations.

Just south of the town of Vitac we crossed the river and parked at one of the numerous beaches.

There are many canoe and kayak rental locations that ferry you up river. After putting in it is a very gentle down river jaunt of mostly flat water and no rapids of note.

Our early start provided cooler temps and virtually no wind. These conditions are also ideal for hot air balloon adventures. We have never taken a ride and not sure if my fear of heights would frazzle my nerves. 

The views must be spectacular.

One of the must see towns along the way is this town built into the vaulted hillside. 

Some of the houses up the hill are more modern but it is hard to imagine getting to the more ancient places that predate the industrial age. 

This one at the base of the cliff is accessible by paved road. Sure beats walking.

Not bad for our modern cliff dwellers.

Fortunately the road through town is flat, not like some of the killer climbs to lesser places.

A "YAC", yet another castle. There are over 1000 in the Dordogne alone.

Our ride today took us back through Daglan where we visited with Darlene and Shaun on Friday night. 

Shaun offered us a coffee which we dare not refuse. Would be very "un-French"

Bicycles have a long history in France with many abandoned and rusting along the way. The more artistic folk often paint and decorate them in lively colors and flowery accessories. These are all used up awaiting an ambitious artist giving them a new life. 

Toward the end of the ride we needed to sneak in our required coffee and pastry stop. 

Park the bikes...

Near a suitable cafe. A noisy spot but maybe our last chance saloon.

Napoleons do not travel well in a panier on a very hot day. Still, they are delicious even if some of the icing was scraped off the foil.

Our path through the secret garden where cars are "barre"

 

JULIEN - 09-SEP

 Today's ride is to the hilltop town of Domme featuring a grueling climb to the medieval walled city.

First things first - our daily bread. This boulangerie is in Carsac-Aillac. Better than our local boulangerie in Saint Julien. 

Success brings smiles to Kim's face. Better than the bread was the pastries for our coffee stop in Domme.

Foie Gras to the left of us, foie gras to the right of us, into the valley of foie gras road the two of us.

Up and over gets the blood flowing enough to get the jackets off. It is going to be a warm one today.

The operative word is "mont" which is a logical place to put a fort.

Not the highest point in the area but easily defended from the amassing hordes.

Top of the climb...

And ready for the downhill to the river below.

Road flattens out along the river.

Looking down river to the west. The Dordogne flows out into the Atlantic.

Along the beaten path but much preferred to another up and over.

Walking the bike is prudent when the path is narrow, gravel, and irregular. No sense risking a puncture or fall. 

Domme straight ahead at the start of the ascent. 

Upon entering the town we check the map for Centre Ville. We decide not to venture farther north and steep uphill. Notice the three !!! on the far end of town. That is the panoramic overlook which comes a few days later. 

The smart way to get around town, especially for the faint of heart and physically diminished. 

Memorial to fallen soldiers from both world wars. 

A well deserved and definitely earned coffee and pastry stop.

None of that fruity stuff for me. Chocolate, chocolate, chocolate, an essential food group.

Funky sculpture of no great significance. Every town has one. 

Sortie and much anticipated downhill. 

Much to our chagrin is an unexpected climb between Domme and home. 

Kim cut the pedaling part short and decided to stroll the last half mile. Good move since the mercury was steadily rising. 

Another round of guess the crop. We recognize corn or sun flowers but many of the fields escape our recognition

In this case we had to consult our agricultural expert. Sorghum which the Chinese use to make a potent alcoholic drink but we are sure there are other less exotic uses.