JULIEN - 13-SEP

"Rainy days and Mondays get me down" as the Mamas and Papas so aptly put it many decades ago. Well, today was not Monday but it sure was rainy. This meant that Plan "B" was another day of touring. Not so bad since we had already decided that the ride to Rocamadour was beyond our hill climbing ability. So a road trip would be a suitable substitute which the photos will justify. 

Along the way we pass one of the numerous duck farms scattered throughout the Dordogne area. You can stop and visit the farms, but why would you want to. This is the raw material for "Canard Pate de Foie Gras". 

A short note on the humane treatment of breeding animals. The traditional method of creating ducks with vastly enlarged livers was to force feed each animal three times a day with feed that made their livers grow to ten times their normal size. This technique has been outlawed in a number of countries and California. The birds are kept in cages that restrict their movement in the most inhumane way possible. As the photo shows these birds are "free range" and not force fed. The end is the same - they are killed for human consumption - but their lives are vastly different. This is not the place to debate the case for an animal free diet, but as devowed carnivores we intend to continue our love affair with meat of all varieties.  

Our sole destination was the cliffside town of Rocamadour.

To see the town perched on the side and top of the cliff is to wonder how it was built without the aid of modern machinery. Obviously it employed an endless supply of cheap labor (ala the pyramids). It reminded us of Meteora in Greece where celibate monks desired to live in total isolation around the 10th century. This town is like Meteora on steroids built on a massive scale.   

This photo speaks for itself. We were glad that we drove rather than biked. 

This year the Tour de France (men's) stage 20 ended in the town after an insane climb at the end of the 133.5 km leg. Insane!

Getting there and back was an unending snake of windy roads and impressive ups and downs. When our stomachs settled we stopped in a lovely town for - you guessed it - coffee and pastry. As evidenced by the long sleeved jacket the rain cooled the temperatures to a mild 60's and the welcomed cloud cover required a long sleeve jacket. 

Not as exhausting as hours on the bike but it was nice to relax at dinner with a bottle of bubbly, pate (canard pate foie gras) and fresh baked bread.
Viva la France. 

 

JULIEN - 12-SEP

Our first destination today was a guided tour (fortunately in English) of the Caves at Lascaux.

The caves were discovered in 1940 by some teenage boys exploring the hills outside of town. Inside this circuitous, meandering cave were extraordinary paintings left behind by the local inhabitants about 20,000 years ago. The caves we explored are an exact replica of the ones found years ago complete with visitor center, restaurant, and obligatory gift shop (yes you do exit through the gift shop).

Notice the massive visitors center which is a very recent addition. 

This is a replica of the replica; Kim is the real thing!

Even though the caves are a replica the lighting simulates the illumination the inhabitants used. It was probably animal fat lamps that did not produce soot which would have covered the paintings. So, no photography while meandering through the cave. There is an extensive display in full light of what you see inside. 

We look much better in full light in front of the iconic rock wall bull. 

Stop two is the medieval town of Sarlat - pronounced sar-la with the ending t just for show in the French style.  

Like so many towns of the same period it burned to the ground during the 100 years war but was rebuilt to last entirely of limestone from the surrounding hills.

Finding parking in the town overrun by tourists (present company excluded) is hard enough but paying for parking is a challenge in a league of its own. This French local showed us the way - Merci.

Hard to pass up a flying buttress but not of Notre Dame acclaim. 

A typical village street scene and Sarlat was no exception. 

A perfect lunch spot just before it closes at 2:30. Five minutes later and we would have gone hungry.

We shared beef and frites, and duck (aka Canard) which is what is left over after salvaging the liver for Foie Gras (fatty liver). They have everything foie gras except foie gras ice cream (or we might have missed that).

Very old stone building. Some stone is older than dirt.

A flower of some kind.

We are addicted to The Amazing Race. In 2022 episode 7 took the contestants to the Dordogne. We may not have hit every location on the race but the "holy grail" was to find Panorama which is no easy feat since there are no signs anywhere. They were directed to Domme which is at the top of a very windy, steep, and obscure roadway (which we did bike up on a previous day). For us it was easy peasy since we made it here before and were able to follow the car GPS (not available to the teams). 

 

The Dordogne river and valley below.

A panorama shot from Panorama overlook!

As far as the eye can see.

The overlook.

Kim found the spot - but no Phil or clue box.

The end of our quest.

Panorama in Domme!

After a long day of touring and lots of driving the end of the day deserves our just desserts. 

 

JULIEN - 11-SEP

Today's ride started at the house which allows us to sleep in for another 30 minutes. Due to the very high daytime temps (not Phoenix hot, but hot for us) we get on the bikes shortly after sunrise. 

Route planning is critical to get the climbing behind us before the beating sun drains our energy. An overcast day is a blessing as is a shade covered road along the hillsides. 

At the highest point of the ascent we enjoyed this expansive view of the Dordogne river valley below.

The descent to the river took us down this windy, narrow road.

I go first to scout the steep decline beyond the arch. Sure glad we have hydraulic disc brakes. 

This area is known for its walnut trees which are everywhere. It was once a vine area centuries ago which was wiped out by a blight, so the hearty walnut tree replaced the grapes. We prefer the fruit of the vine over the fruit of the tree.

Chestnuts are not as common but often line the roads dropping fruit in our path. Important to ride around them and avoid a dreaded puncture. So far no flats which really sours a ride.

Welcome to the Dordogne and flat, meandering path along the river. 

Quick stop in Saint Julien for life's essentials. A daily fresh baguette is a French law. Oh so civilized!

My bike is more beautiful with colorful flowers in the photo.

 

JULIEN - 10-SEP

Today we drove to our starting point. Although getting the bikes into and out of the car is a chore it extends our routing range. After watching numerous videos on local sites we knew that this ride would take us to "must see" locations.

Just south of the town of Vitac we crossed the river and parked at one of the numerous beaches.

There are many canoe and kayak rental locations that ferry you up river. After putting in it is a very gentle down river jaunt of mostly flat water and no rapids of note.

Our early start provided cooler temps and virtually no wind. These conditions are also ideal for hot air balloon adventures. We have never taken a ride and not sure if my fear of heights would frazzle my nerves. 

The views must be spectacular.

One of the must see towns along the way is this town built into the vaulted hillside. 

Some of the houses up the hill are more modern but it is hard to imagine getting to the more ancient places that predate the industrial age. 

This one at the base of the cliff is accessible by paved road. Sure beats walking.

Not bad for our modern cliff dwellers.

Fortunately the road through town is flat, not like some of the killer climbs to lesser places.

A "YAC", yet another castle. There are over 1000 in the Dordogne alone.

Our ride today took us back through Daglan where we visited with Darlene and Shaun on Friday night. 

Shaun offered us a coffee which we dare not refuse. Would be very "un-French"

Bicycles have a long history in France with many abandoned and rusting along the way. The more artistic folk often paint and decorate them in lively colors and flowery accessories. These are all used up awaiting an ambitious artist giving them a new life. 

Toward the end of the ride we needed to sneak in our required coffee and pastry stop. 

Park the bikes...

Near a suitable cafe. A noisy spot but maybe our last chance saloon.

Napoleons do not travel well in a panier on a very hot day. Still, they are delicious even if some of the icing was scraped off the foil.

Our path through the secret garden where cars are "barre"