NEUNG - 09-OCT

 

Today we were on a mission. We plotted the most direct route to Chambord, probably the largest and most famous chateau in the Loire and all of France. Not as large as Versailles nor as expansive but it is still a majestic building. It is situated in a forest park about five miles from the nearest town.

This is our third visit to the chateau. Our first was in 1967 while on our honeymoon. Paris was one of our stops including London, Amsterdam, and Madrid. We were on a five dollar a day tour (yes, it is not a typo - the trip was advertised as five dollars per day). In Paris we decided to take a one day (very long day) bus tour which ended at Chambord for a light and sound show - in French. It was still magnificent even though we did not understand a word. 

Our second visit was on our 2016 self guided, solo bike trip to France, starting in the Loire Valley. We biked to the chateau but did not take the inside tour and just cycled around it. Today was our third visit which was a ride to the grounds but from a different direction and included a coffee stop. At eight euros this was the most expensive two double espressos on the trip. Viva La Tourist. 

Since we made a beeline that covered the shortest distance there was no deviations along narrow paths. We did pass through several towns including the home of this church - very uncharacteristic for an Englise but no town would find themselves without one. It is hard to imagine the percentage of town wealth that went into church construction over the centuries. 

We entered into the surrounding forest and knew we were soon to be rewarded. 

There it is in the distance. Quite impressive even this far away 

Frontal view down the main entrance path. 

Just to prove we were actually there someone took our photo. Could be the cover picture for the 2023 Holiday Card. 

On our last visit this section was concealed by scaffolding but now that the restoration is finished it makes for a better picture.  

Yet another view as we circumnavigated the building. 

Sculpture of stag outside the coffee cafe. Interesting construction using wood fragments to build up the torso. 

We passed this photographer shooting a bride. Hard to see from this angle. Great wedding venue but think it was only a photo op for a soon to be bride or promo for bridal gown 

Short rest on our way home. At 38 miles plus this was one of our longest rides, but very flat and minimal climbing. Kim's favorite. 

NEUNG - 08-OCT

 

Today was our second ride in the Loire Valley. The terrain is very flat with lightly traveled roads and long straight stretches. Even though it is warmer here than at our last locations many of the roads are wooded sections through the forest. Not sure if the forests are original or plated to harvest the lumber which is stacked along the roadsides probably drying before heading to a sawmill. 

Our house is in a fairly modern subdivision which was probably farmland. Our closest neighbor is a donkey that lives in an enclosure which may be part of this house or the next one over. 

Houses here are more half timber with brick and cement filling the spaces between the wood. A far cry from the predominant stone structures in the Dordogne. Not clear the vintage but guess the medieval stone villages predate this areas. 

This town is planning a festival for breast cancer awareness. Pink umbrellas are hanging from everywhere. 

Gray herons are everywhere but we have yet to see a live one. We even have one in our back yard. 

Watch our for these critters which inhabit the surrounding woods and fields. They even have warning signs that have a picture of a deer and extend for 3 km - amazing how the animals can convert from miles to kilometers. 

A bit more creative this sculpture made from a dead log is actually mounted in the water giving a greater sense of realism. 

Early aviation started in France long before the Wright Brothers. Not sure if this is just a sculpture or replica of one of the earliest flying machines. 

We are always interested in what is growing along the way, especially those fields under cultivation. 

Had to use an image search to identify this one. It might be a wild sunflower plant but not sure what they do with it. Not the traditional sunflower plant we have seen all over the country. 

Since we finished our ride earlier than expected (flat rides go much faster with fewer stops) Kim wanted to drive over to see the actual Loire River. It was a lovely drive with an expectation for an ice cream stop before heading back. This was not to be since it is Sunday so any place that would have been open earlier in the day was closed by the time we arrived. Oh well, another day. 

There are many chateaus in this area so classic castles are plentiful. Having toured most of the most famous on earlier trips we are only planning to return to Chambord on tomorrow's ride and skip a return visit to the rest. This place was on our ice cream drive and dates back to the 17th century. It was an abbey not a chateau but equally majestic 

It has been repurposed as a Grand Hotel once the religious order vacated. More profitable. 

We made it to the river so our quest was successful. Lots of cyclists going in every direction on this warm, sunny, beautiful day. 

Not a lot of water but enough to qualify as an official river with a bridge crossing. 

NEUNG - 06-OCT & 07-OCT

After completing our ten day bike tour of Brittany with Kathy and Roy Bukstein, we are off to our last destination of our France 2023 adventure. This was one of our longest transition day drives which is always a grind.

The first challenge was to retrieve the car from the train station parking area. The early morning twenty minute walk was invigorating, and rewarded when our car was still there with no parking tickets on the windshield. Navigating back to the hotel was easy with our GPS guiding around one way streets and multiple round abouts. Finally got to the hotel and a waiting parking spot that Kim was defending with her life. 

Loading the bikes is getting easier now that we won't need to do it again. Hopefully we will remember the technique for the next trip. Quick breakfast and goodbyes to Kathy and Roy and we were on our way.  

 

All transitions require a stop at the market to stock up for the next location. To our surprise there was a Leclerc on the way out of Guingamp  so breaking from tradition we did our shopping first. Again, the vitals come first.  

Our last town located on the eastern side of the Loire Valley. It has the obligatory church and life sustaining boulangerie. We became locals in no time. 

Scouting quiet traffic free rides is a top priority. This chateau was on a wooded road of seven straight miles of flat riding. Great way to start - way to go Alan. 

Towns here look like towns anywhere. 

And all routes lead too and from the local church. 

We stopped at this grassy area in front of a school (Ecole) then noticed the sign which designates a safe gathering area for students in case of an emergency. Never had one of these when I was in school. 

Great coffee stop especially when there was no other option in sight. We were befriended by group in the background who spoke/understood enough English to have a conversation. Our beverage of choice was coffee while theirs was a bit stronger. 

Villeny was one of the towns we passed though on several rides, either deliberately or just by accident. 

Kim was infatuated with these elevated platforms but we could not decide on their purpose. They were spread throughout the fields in the countryside and came in many different styles.

Uh Oh! This was not part of the plan. Without the boring details it is some times difficult to determine when a road is a road, paved or not. When the pavement turned to gravel we figured we could handle this. When the gravel turned to dirt and the road was a track we had to decide whether to turn back or push on. With the help of Google Maps and my iPhone compass I determined we were not far from our house so on we went. After crossing one field to the next, over a foot bridge we eventually came upon the extension to the paved road which I mistook for a fully paved route. Cross this off of any future rides. 

 

GUINGAMP RETURN - 05-OCT

Today is the last riding day of our tour with Kathy and Roy. Because we extended the traditional route offered by Cyclomundo this put our last location farther away from the starting pointing. Their published route was longer than we preferred so I devised a more direct path not knowing how congested these roads would be. It turned out to be only 32+ miles but almost 2400 feet of climbing, including a short segment in the wrong direction. By sheer luck most of the miles were along tree covered forest roads or through rolling farmland. A few of the grades exceeded our comfort zone and required short walks to the top of the hill. For Kathy and Roy on E-bikes it was easy peeziy. 

France is a cycling centric country where bikes adorn the side of the roads or overhead wires. Many towns are decked out from their inclusion in the Tour de France in years past. 

These cows were secured in this locked gate but not sure its purpose. Maybe getting ready for transport to the meat factory or relocation to greener pastures.  

Nothing like a selfie with our newly found friends in the background. 

Back at our hotel in Guingamp we had to take photo of this horse sculpture ...

which serves as the reception desk. Very funky. 

This deer sculpture adorned the local car park and a vital landmark to assure us we had reached our destination. Under the legs, a quick left, and voila we are at the hotel. Truly the end of the road.  

Back to the Italian restaurant for our last dinner together on this trip. Great way to end but sure that our foursome will be enjoying many more meals in the future. 

 

LOCQUIREC - 03-OCT & 04-OCT

This post covers our transition from Perros to Locquirec. This add-on to the basic Britany tour included some challenging climbs and uncharted roads not routinely road tested. We rose to the challenge and managed to arrive tired but exhilarated. The reward was a lovely seaside hotel with the best views and accommodations. Not many photos to distract us from the task at hand. 

Another church at the top of the hill.

Not bad for a small obscure hamlet. They built these to last.  

A ancient windmill that was probably decommissioned long ago. 

The challenging aspect of this ride was many up and over climbs and descents revealing impressive structures along he cliffs. 

Our reward was arriving to this majestic resort. 

Very old world.

With impressive façade (French for facade) facing the bay. 

The view from our balcony toward the bay at low tide. 

The nighttime view was more impressive. 

The eastern view delivered a beautiful sunrise.

Could not resist capturing the moment.

Including the turret and waving flag cast against the sunrise. 

By far my most favorite choice - moules and frites. Going to miss them as much as the baguettes and pastries. 

The offshore rock formations appear and disappear with the changing tides. Some are only accessible when the low tides cooperate.

The beach along the bay. 

Kathy and Roy

A blank wall decorated to look like a scene from years ago.

Kim explored the turret in daylight. 

We walked past these formations but decided that rock scrambling was not a good idea since we still had our return bike ride ahead.  

Seaside vistas are magical any time of the day. 

The houses overlooking the cliffs were magnificent to look at but would not want to pay for the utilities and maintenance. Renting beats owning. 

The tide prevented us from exploring this temporary island. Still worth seeing from afar.